Ladakh - Facts and Information
Day by Day 4: June 14th to 16th
Village fields and the journey home

LADAKH INDEX



Leh 1
Leh 2
Thiksey & Hemis
Chang La & Pangong
Matho
Stok
Shey
Khardung La
Nubra Valley
Nubra Monasteries
Lamayuru
Alchi Village
Alchi Monastery
Likir
Basgo
Chilling
Nimoo

June 14
Road to house closed by flood repairs so walked down through fields to main road for short drive to Basgo Palace and Gompa. Amazing site on hillside which doesn’t seem to get many visitors. Drove through Zanskar gorge (impressive) to Chilling to see metal workers and were given spoons courtesy of Shakti. Staff from Nimoo had laid table in orchard for lunch then into house to see examples of work. Had wander round village. Back to Nimoo and taken to meet our guide Stanzin’s grandmother where we had tea, biscuits and dried apricots (these had been dried with a vengeance and were like bullets taking an age to soften in the mouth).

June 15
Started morning by walking through fields and visiting Stanzin’s family’s garden. Visited local school and had long talk with head (couldn’t see kids as in exams). Had hoped to see local herbal medicine guy but he was in Leh for festival. Had been asked if we would like to try some archery we (wondering if this might be a local sport as in Bhutan) said yes, a little bemused to end up on a building site with a box as target for some rather tatty arrows but it was quite good fun even though all five of us were useless. Had said we would like to try some chang (local beer} so were taken back to Tanzin’s grandparents house. Saw bikkies being baked in oven in yard, had some with tea (declined apricots). Chang probably stronger than guides had told us and was palatable if rather spoilt by local custom of sprinkling some tsampa into it.

June 16
0400 breakfast for 0500 departure for airport. Security at Leh Airport very tight. We were aware cabin baggage might not be allowed so had prepared accordingly. Passports shown at gate. Passports and tickets required at door where we were scanned. A few yards further on baggage taken to be scanned, cabin size bag sealed with a security tape, we were scanned again. Couple of Jet porters appeared and whizzed us to desk where clerk refused to let any bags into cabin (camera would have been OK but was by now in sealed bag so let it go), had to argue to get Eleanor’s stick allowed. Reason given was that ‘police are very strict’. Jet Conditions of Carriage specifically ban carry ons from three Jammu and Kashmir airports but a few passengers on our flight did have bags. There was a military transport leaving and troops bound for that were subject to full security check. We think this, plus the congestion due to all civil flights leaving within a short period, overloaded the police who had told clerks not to allow cabin baggage. (It seems as though it is the luck of the draw whether you are allowed carry ons or not but we suspect that if you get to the airport very early you are more likely to get a result. Reports suggest that batteries will not be allowed in the cabin). After all that a very thorough scan where people with bags were having them searched. Once in the departure lounge one of us had to go outside to identify our bags which were checked against our receipts and the manifest. Lounge busy and noisy but improved as flights left. Bus trip to apron where scanned again, this time by Jet staff. Journey from IGI a bit slow as end of morning rush. Delhi unpleasant as very hot and humid so just stopped in hotel. Didn’t really want lunch so bought excellent (and surprisingly filling) croissants from Claridge’s bakery. The Claridges, Delhi. (See June 3).

June 17
Leisurely and excellent breakfast (long chat with chef) before being taken to airport for long and busy flight home. Very wet in London and took some time to get pickup to car. Night at Hayes Premier Inn.

June 18
Left London 0415, home 0800.

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