Canada 2009 - Facts and Information
Day by Day 1: West Newfoundland
From UK to Halifax and on to Newfoundland

CANADA 2010



W NEWFOUNDLAND

 Humber Arm
 North to St Barbe
 Broom Point
 L'Anse aux Meadows
 Northern Peninsula 1
 Northern Peninsula 2
 Northern Peninsula 3
 Gros Morne NP 1
 Gros Morne NP 2



LABRADOR

 Into Labrador
 Red Bay
 Pointe Amour
 Labrador coast
 Into Québec



E NEWFOUNDLAND

 Baie Verte Peninsula
 Connaigre Peninsula 1
 Connaigre Peninsula 2
 Twillingate
 Highway 320
 Bonavista Peninsula 1
 Bonavista Peninsula 2
 Bonavista Peninsula 3
 Avalon Peninsula 1
 Avalon Peninsula 2



NOVA SCOTIA

 To Louisbourg
 Louisbourg 1
 Louisbourg 2
 Iona
 Cape Breton 1
 Cape Breton 2
 Sherbrooke
 Fisherman's Life



FACTS/INFO INDEX

27 August
After an overnight at Premier Inn on Bath Road drove the few yards to Quality Parking next door for transfer to LHR. Not a good start as Air Canada Lounge door was stuck shut so got vouchers for food outlets. Good flight and easy arrival at Halifax with very helpful staff on information. Got free shuttle (every 30 minutes all day and night) to hotels. Could not check in for morning flight that early at airport but did it in Business Centre at hotel. Hilton Garden Inn, Halifax Airport. Typical offering, good room and facilities, good dinner and breakfast.

28 August
Out for shuttle early in case it was full (first come, first taken) but it wasn't so at airport in plenty of time for pleasant flight in Dash 8 to Deer Lake. Cabin baggage allowance is generous but space isn't so you leave it on trolley at foot of stairs and it appears on similar trolley when you get off. Picked up car. Eleanor's naggravation got us lost within 30 seconds which was some sort of record and boded ill for the coming month. Sorted it out then headed south to Corner Brook to get food for next few days. Drove round until we spied a Sobey's and went in there. Back to Steady Brook for overnight. Edgewater Inn, Steady Brook. Large house in quiet location with very friendly owners and pets. Room average and a bit cramped with poor sound insulation. Room not serviced during stay but this seemed normal in NL. Common area for residents with fridge, microwave etc but had to ask for crockery and knives. Breakfast OK but a bit thin, but this seemed to be another NL trait.

29 August
Drove past Corner Brook along south shore of Humber Arm to the end stopping at various points to look and wander. Bottle Cove near end has nice scenery and interesting little trail which doesn't seem to get much publicity. Marlaine's Tidewater Cafe on shore near far end of Lark Harbour recommended for snacks and light meals. Lovely day beginning to cloud over. Went into Blow Me Down Provincial Park and up to outlook for interesting view. Then went down Governor's Staircase to shore which was distinctly underwhelming (watch tide at botom). Later did short waterfall walk at Copper Mine Trail carpark, worthwhile.

30 August
Early start for a longish drive north. Scenery became quite interesting as we approached Gros Morne, number of stops to wander. Went into Parks Canada centre to buy pass for parks and other sites. Went to Broom Point Fishing Station which had excellent staff and was good. On to Cow Head to do Lighthouse Trail, long and rather tedious walk through thick forest, lighthouse not worth it but eventually took Point of Head Trail and got out onto good headland with lovely view. Paths fair and being improved. Coast beyond was excellent, clear of trees with low cliffs and pebbly beaches, all very good with little settlement and clear, fast road. Made a few stops for views but time was pressing so could not explore. Turned off to St Barbe for night. St Barbe Motel, St Barbe. Chosen for proximity to Labrador ferry the next morning as nothing else for a long way. Rather gloomy place with owner who seems to have graduated from Basil Fawlty Charm School. Expensive, room ordinary but clean and comfortable. Dinner OK but very slow and expensive for what it was. Avoided breakfast.

31 August - 3 September
In Labrador and described on next page.

4 September
Started off southbound from St Barbe to pick up 432 and go east to the French Shore. Very quiet road but mainly forested. Saw a black bear on the road in the distance. Turned off pavement onto gravel to go down to Conche, an outport where the road has only recently arrived. Spent a while mooching around here on a lovely day. Had planned to go to Croque but with the good weather and Hurricane Earl approaching we decided to hotfoot it to L'Anse au Meadows for which we wanted good weather. Got there and did guided tour then spent long time talking to staff who were quite excellent with deep knowledge of the site and the Norse expeditions, however you need to ask questions to get the most out of the place. Did nice little walk round coast then back to Visitor Centre which being refurbished and had very little information in it, but staff still good. Eventually found cabin which was not at St Lunaire-Griquet as advised but at Straitsview. Snorri Cabins, Straitsview. Good sized, well equipped unit. Towels and shower poor, internet intermittent (limit of range). Cabin serviced on request. Clover Farm Convenience Store nearby had fair selection of basics, excellent cod produced when we asked.

5 September
Hurricane Earl went through in small hours with torrential rain leaving a dull morning with drizzle. Headed to St Anthony where dry but dull and exceptionally windy, did little Harbour Nature Trail. On to Goose Cove where beautiful day but wind very, very strong. Pleasant settlement, nosed round and talked to locals. Bravely decided to take trail round headland (wind was onshore so progress difficult but safe!) which was very good. Then to Great Brehat where little trail to headland well worthwhile for views, and later another good, wee trail at St Carols. St Anthony Bight, Quirpon not worth detour.

6 September
To Pistolet Park for minibus tour to Burnt Cape Ecological Reserve, good but guide's knowledge limited. Had look at Raleigh and Ship Cove but not a lot to see. Went to Onion Cove and did little trail to Ship Cove but dull day. Later to Boat Harbour in glorious but very windy weather. Nosed around (standing with difficulty) and explored past cemetery to headland - good. On way back parked and wandered on barrens by sea and inland a bit - excellent. Found liquor store in St Lunaire and got some fruit wine to sample - loved it!

7 September
Did Cape Raven Trail at Straitsview, quite warm going uphill in sun but breezy on top with good views. On to end of road at L'Anse au Meadows and wandered around shore for a while. Back to Viking site to pester staff with more questions.

8 September
Dull, dampish start for nice run down 430 (much more interesting than 432). Called in at Flower Cove and did trail to the thrombolites. Went to Port au Choix, Started Dorset Trail but gave up when terminal boredom set in. Went to Old Port au Choix (nice) to Philip's Garden Trail (much better). South to Rocky Harbour on beautiful evening. Rocky Harbour felt like Tourist Central so bought some more fruit wine to take our mind off tourists. Bottom Brook Cabins, Rocky Harbour. Very friendly owners who gave us some moose steaks to try. Cabin small but OK for two and well equipped. Internet didn't reach us so had to go to Laundry Room.

9 September
Forecast poor but better than next day. Headed for Tablelands and did trail in full waterproofs, good but cold and windy. On to Trout River where sun showing a bit and had a good nose round. Back to Woody Point which has a very interesting heritage trail. However rain arrived so we went to cafe by Seaside Souvenirs for shelter and some excellent chowder. Up to Discovery Centre in steady rain but not a lot to discover in there. Back to Rocky Harbour in time to catch Fish Plant open for some cod for tea.

10 September
Dull start which slowly improved. Drove to Norris Point and wandered a bit. Then back up to Jenniex House, museum-cum-cafe-cum-souvenirs which was interesting. Back through Rocky Harbour to Lobster Cove Lighthouse (fascinating guide) and a wander on a fantastic evening which later turned very wet.

 

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