to St Barbe
Very wet night turned to very wet, windy morning. Headed south
to Deer Lake then east along TCH. Did detour to Hampden and drove
along White Bay with waves breaking over the road to the end
at The Beaches. Pity weather was so foul. Back to TCH and diner
where we sampled NL delicacy of poutine (chips, gravy, mozarella
- good comfort food), small plate was enormous. On to South West
Arm and Rattling Brook. Checked in and given bag of chews for
big, friendly dog who was likely to come and see us (he did).
Went to see Dulcie who runs very old fashioned dry goods, hardware
and fabric shop at end of the road, fascinating place and spent
long time talking to her. Back to King's Point to get food for
next couple of days. (Bought some boil-in-bag kippers which came
out like boot leather.) Rain now easing so went up Rattling Brook
Waterfall Trail, impressive after rain. Windermere Log
Cabins, Rattling Brook. Nice, big unit up fairly steep gravel
road. Probably has good views when you can see them. Internet
Dry, cloudy morning which gradually turned into nice day. Long,
rather boring drive to Baie Verte Peninsula. Dorset Soap Stone
Quarry site interesting. Ocean View Trail abandoned when unstable
board walk nearly deposited us in bog. La Scie interesting with
some nice little walks on headland. Shoe Cove had interesting,
little harbour. Tilt Cove reached along poor gravel road, interesting
little ghost town. Brent's Cove and Harbour Round worth a wander
on nice evening.
Lovely morning when leaving Rattling Brook, back to TCH for boring
drive (few services on this stretch) to junction with 360 where
diner provided welcome refreshment. Checked full tank for long
drive south down 360 (130km of trees and nothing else to next
petrol!) then turned off to St Alban's (nothing of great interest).
Milton and Morrisville both pleasant and worth a wander. Mikmac
Heritage Centre closed for the season. Down to Conne River which
wasn't worth it. Further south on 360 on nice evening with nice
views and scenery as forest gave way to barrens. Drove to Hermitage
which is in lovely setting and interesting place to wander. Arrived
In Harbour Breton (marvellous setting, reminded us of Norway)
and went down Lighthouse Trail in near dark. Southern Port
Hotel, Harbour Breton. Seemed to be only accommodation, unfriendly
reception, good clean room, wireless internet. Soulless dining
room served uninspiring menu 5-7pm, light continental breakfast
extra and not taken by us. Shott's Snack Bar down the road gave
Cloudy start likely to improve so drove to end of road at Wreck
Cove (interesting) and worked our way back. All this area very
good with nice, open scenery with a lot of variety, pity more
people don't get down here. Drove back stopping at Coombe's Cove
(interesting), Boxey and Mose Ambrose (uninspiring). English
Harbour West quite big with nice walk on headland at its west
end. St Jacques straggling and unattractive but Belleoram has
superb setting as does Pool's Cove. Went back past Hermitage
to see Seal Cove which was waste of time. Back to Harbour Breton
and walked on cliffs on superb evening. Connaigre Peninsula very,
Dreary morning so waited to see if it improved which it did slowly.
Good run back along 360, especially through barrens. Stopped
at diner at 360/TCH for bowl of chowder. Headed north past Louisport
(developed area). Few detours but none really worth it. Beyond
New Island was different with much better scenery vaguely reminiscent
of northern Norway. Rum Runner's Roost, Twillingate.
Interesting 1920s house used for B&B. Owners come in morning
to cook nice breakfast, you have run of good kitchen in evening
for own meal. Good if rather cramped room, wireless internet.
Dull morning so went to Long Point Lighthouse and wandered in
woods. Drove to Municipal Park (old harbour and mines) then to
Crowshead (interesting harbour) and Wild Cove. Took some pictures
of Twillingate and walked past church a way before driving through
Ragged Point (boring) and Bay View to Kettle Cove (nice). Down
to Salt Harbour (excellent) and Hatchet Harbour (less attractive).
Pike's Arm uninteresting and starting to rain heavily so back
to Twillingate. Went to Auk Island Winery and got some Moose
Juice (recommended). They did free delivery on case in Canada,
claim that UK was closer than BC cut no ice.
Lovely if windy morning and very clear for long way round 320
with number of little stops in interesting coastal scenery. Greenspond
pleasant town with interesting old buildings. On to Dover for
fault lookout (interesting). Back to surprisingly busy TCH for
Eastport to arrive on very cloudy evening. Inn by the Sea,
Eastport. Large, modern house with friendly owners and big,
soft dog. Huge, well equipped, comfy bedroom. Internet intermittent
in bedroom. Reasonable breakfast. Dinner at Little Denier Restaurant,
OK but not exciting.
Foul night and morning, dog on verandah as fed up as we were.
Headed straight for Bonavista, scenery on last bit probably nice
on clear day. Visited Ryan's Premises, very interesting with
good staff who tended to give set spiel but good at answering
questions. Had a quick look at Bonavista town but weather poor
so had nice date slice in cafe by Courthouse. Top of the
Hill, Trouty. Large and comfortable upper floor flat in traditional
salt box house. Well, if somewhat erratically, equipped but showing
age a bit. No internet.
Mist burning off to superb day. Wandered round Trouty and down
to its little harbour, all in a lovely setting sadly to be destroyed
two days later by Hurricane Igor. Down to Old Bonaventure and
Random Passage site which truly excellent with good staff. Good
lunch in the information centre. Then to East Trinity to do Skerwink
Trail (waste of time as nearly all in forest). Then to Trinity,
fascinating old settlement with many interesting buildings open
without charge on that day, sadly we got there too late to make
the most of it.
Foul morning with torrential rain which dried up for pleasant
run into Placentia on dull day. Went up Castle Hill (interesting)
but rain threatening and drove on via Old Placentia Highway (roughish
gravel). Stopped at unsigned Cataracts Provincial Park for two
interesting little trails to waterfalls but raining steadily.
Back to TCH then very, very wild run along Witless Bay Line to
Bay Bulls. Best View Efficiency Units, Bay Bulls. Large,
modern unit with good view over bay. Well equipped and comfortable,
internet fast. Water from well and quite salty so we stuck to
Hurricane Igor went through so we stayed indoors all day. Really
stirring stuff, in fact worst storm in living memory in Newfoundland
which did a lot of damage not far from Bay Bulls.
Beautiful if windy morning. Not sure what roads would be like
so decided to do out and back trip to south. Called in at Baudine
East where pier had been wrecked. Filled up with petrol in Cape
Broyle as warned that power off further on (no pumps working,
no shops open). Headed south through increasingly bleak but impressive
barrens country. Sun had gone and was quite cold in wind. Went
down to St Shott's at southern tip of Avalon Peninsula. This
was an outport which had refused to be resettled (ie abandoned)
and was quite atmospheric with a very big sea still running.
On way back sun returned for beautiful evening.
Last day in Newfoundland. St John's badly hit by Igor so went
round TCH to Battery at Quidi Vidi which was good with well informed
staff. Went to Commissariat House (badly signed, missed it first
time) which interesting, guide new and enthusiastic but probably
not that knowledgeable. Combination of road works, fallen trees
and Eleanor's naggravation got us lost (twice) but eventually
ended up at Signal Hill on a lovely but very windy day. Went
to Visitor Centre which was long on presentation and short on
information, loos were good though. On to airport to drop car
and wait for (late) flight to Halifax arriving 2330. Holiday
Inn Express, Halifax Airport. Good reception, nice, big,
comfortable room. Breakfast a bit disappointing. Next door to
Hilton Garden Inn - see 27 August for shuttle information.