Canada 2010 - Facts and Information
Day by Day 3: East Newfoundland
Time on the north and south coasts of the island

CANADA 2010



W NEWFOUNDLAND

 Humber Arm
 North to St Barbe
 Broom Point
 L'Anse aux Meadows
 Northern Peninsula 1
 Northern Peninsula 2
 Northern Peninsula 3
 Gros Morne NP 1
 Gros Morne NP 2



LABRADOR

 Into Labrador
 Red Bay
 Pointe Amour
 Labrador coast
 Into Québec



E NEWFOUNDLAND

 Baie Verte Peninsula
 Connaigre Peninsula 1
 Connaigre Peninsula 2
 Twillingate
 Highway 320
 Bonavista Peninsula 1
 Bonavista Peninsula 2
 Bonavista Peninsula 3
 Avalon Peninsula 1
 Avalon Peninsula 2



NOVA SCOTIA

 To Louisbourg
 Louisbourg 1
 Louisbourg 2
 Iona
 Cape Breton 1
 Cape Breton 2
 Sherbrooke
 Fisherman's Life



FACTS/INFO INDEX

11 September
Very wet night turned to very wet, windy morning. Headed south to Deer Lake then east along TCH. Did detour to Hampden and drove along White Bay with waves breaking over the road to the end at The Beaches. Pity weather was so foul. Back to TCH and diner where we sampled NL delicacy of poutine (chips, gravy, mozarella - good comfort food), small plate was enormous. On to South West Arm and Rattling Brook. Checked in and given bag of chews for big, friendly dog who was likely to come and see us (he did). Went to see Dulcie who runs very old fashioned dry goods, hardware and fabric shop at end of the road, fascinating place and spent long time talking to her. Back to King's Point to get food for next couple of days. (Bought some boil-in-bag kippers which came out like boot leather.) Rain now easing so went up Rattling Brook Waterfall Trail, impressive after rain. Windermere Log Cabins, Rattling Brook. Nice, big unit up fairly steep gravel road. Probably has good views when you can see them. Internet intermittent.

12 September
Dry, cloudy morning which gradually turned into nice day. Long, rather boring drive to Baie Verte Peninsula. Dorset Soap Stone Quarry site interesting. Ocean View Trail abandoned when unstable board walk nearly deposited us in bog. La Scie interesting with some nice little walks on headland. Shoe Cove had interesting, little harbour. Tilt Cove reached along poor gravel road, interesting little ghost town. Brent's Cove and Harbour Round worth a wander on nice evening.

13 September
Lovely morning when leaving Rattling Brook, back to TCH for boring drive (few services on this stretch) to junction with 360 where diner provided welcome refreshment. Checked full tank for long drive south down 360 (130km of trees and nothing else to next petrol!) then turned off to St Alban's (nothing of great interest). Milton and Morrisville both pleasant and worth a wander. Mikmac Heritage Centre closed for the season. Down to Conne River which wasn't worth it. Further south on 360 on nice evening with nice views and scenery as forest gave way to barrens. Drove to Hermitage which is in lovely setting and interesting place to wander. Arrived In Harbour Breton (marvellous setting, reminded us of Norway) and went down Lighthouse Trail in near dark. Southern Port Hotel, Harbour Breton. Seemed to be only accommodation, unfriendly reception, good clean room, wireless internet. Soulless dining room served uninspiring menu 5-7pm, light continental breakfast extra and not taken by us. Shott's Snack Bar down the road gave good value.

14 September
Cloudy start likely to improve so drove to end of road at Wreck Cove (interesting) and worked our way back. All this area very good with nice, open scenery with a lot of variety, pity more people don't get down here. Drove back stopping at Coombe's Cove (interesting), Boxey and Mose Ambrose (uninspiring). English Harbour West quite big with nice walk on headland at its west end. St Jacques straggling and unattractive but Belleoram has superb setting as does Pool's Cove. Went back past Hermitage to see Seal Cove which was waste of time. Back to Harbour Breton and walked on cliffs on superb evening. Connaigre Peninsula very, very good.

15 September
Dreary morning so waited to see if it improved which it did slowly. Good run back along 360, especially through barrens. Stopped at diner at 360/TCH for bowl of chowder. Headed north past Louisport (developed area). Few detours but none really worth it. Beyond New Island was different with much better scenery vaguely reminiscent of northern Norway. Rum Runner's Roost, Twillingate. Interesting 1920s house used for B&B. Owners come in morning to cook nice breakfast, you have run of good kitchen in evening for own meal. Good if rather cramped room, wireless internet.

16 September
Dull morning so went to Long Point Lighthouse and wandered in woods. Drove to Municipal Park (old harbour and mines) then to Crowshead (interesting harbour) and Wild Cove. Took some pictures of Twillingate and walked past church a way before driving through Ragged Point (boring) and Bay View to Kettle Cove (nice). Down to Salt Harbour (excellent) and Hatchet Harbour (less attractive). Pike's Arm uninteresting and starting to rain heavily so back to Twillingate. Went to Auk Island Winery and got some Moose Juice (recommended). They did free delivery on case in Canada, claim that UK was closer than BC cut no ice.

17 September
Lovely if windy morning and very clear for long way round 320 with number of little stops in interesting coastal scenery. Greenspond pleasant town with interesting old buildings. On to Dover for fault lookout (interesting). Back to surprisingly busy TCH for Eastport to arrive on very cloudy evening. Inn by the Sea, Eastport. Large, modern house with friendly owners and big, soft dog. Huge, well equipped, comfy bedroom. Internet intermittent in bedroom. Reasonable breakfast. Dinner at Little Denier Restaurant, OK but not exciting.

18 September
Foul night and morning, dog on verandah as fed up as we were. Headed straight for Bonavista, scenery on last bit probably nice on clear day. Visited Ryan's Premises, very interesting with good staff who tended to give set spiel but good at answering questions. Had a quick look at Bonavista town but weather poor so had nice date slice in cafe by Courthouse. Top of the Hill, Trouty. Large and comfortable upper floor flat in traditional salt box house. Well, if somewhat erratically, equipped but showing age a bit. No internet.

19 September
Mist burning off to superb day. Wandered round Trouty and down to its little harbour, all in a lovely setting sadly to be destroyed two days later by Hurricane Igor. Down to Old Bonaventure and Random Passage site which truly excellent with good staff. Good lunch in the information centre. Then to East Trinity to do Skerwink Trail (waste of time as nearly all in forest). Then to Trinity, fascinating old settlement with many interesting buildings open without charge on that day, sadly we got there too late to make the most of it.

20 September
Foul morning with torrential rain which dried up for pleasant run into Placentia on dull day. Went up Castle Hill (interesting) but rain threatening and drove on via Old Placentia Highway (roughish gravel). Stopped at unsigned Cataracts Provincial Park for two interesting little trails to waterfalls but raining steadily. Back to TCH then very, very wild run along Witless Bay Line to Bay Bulls. Best View Efficiency Units, Bay Bulls. Large, modern unit with good view over bay. Well equipped and comfortable, internet fast. Water from well and quite salty so we stuck to bottled variety.

21 September
Hurricane Igor went through so we stayed indoors all day. Really stirring stuff, in fact worst storm in living memory in Newfoundland which did a lot of damage not far from Bay Bulls.

22 September
Beautiful if windy morning. Not sure what roads would be like so decided to do out and back trip to south. Called in at Baudine East where pier had been wrecked. Filled up with petrol in Cape Broyle as warned that power off further on (no pumps working, no shops open). Headed south through increasingly bleak but impressive barrens country. Sun had gone and was quite cold in wind. Went down to St Shott's at southern tip of Avalon Peninsula. This was an outport which had refused to be resettled (ie abandoned) and was quite atmospheric with a very big sea still running. On way back sun returned for beautiful evening.

23 September
Last day in Newfoundland. St John's badly hit by Igor so went round TCH to Battery at Quidi Vidi which was good with well informed staff. Went to Commissariat House (badly signed, missed it first time) which interesting, guide new and enthusiastic but probably not that knowledgeable. Combination of road works, fallen trees and Eleanor's naggravation got us lost (twice) but eventually ended up at Signal Hill on a lovely but very windy day. Went to Visitor Centre which was long on presentation and short on information, loos were good though. On to airport to drop car and wait for (late) flight to Halifax arriving 2330. Holiday Inn Express, Halifax Airport. Good reception, nice, big, comfortable room. Breakfast a bit disappointing. Next door to Hilton Garden Inn - see 27 August for shuttle information.

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