Canada 2010 - Facts and Information
Day by Day 4: Nova Scotia
A week on Cape Breton Island and the Eastern Shore



 Humber Arm
 North to St Barbe
 Broom Point
 L'Anse aux Meadows
 Northern Peninsula 1
 Northern Peninsula 2
 Northern Peninsula 3
 Gros Morne NP 1
 Gros Morne NP 2


 Into Labrador
 Red Bay
 Pointe Amour
 Labrador coast
 Into Québec


 Baie Verte Peninsula
 Connaigre Peninsula 1
 Connaigre Peninsula 2
 Highway 320
 Bonavista Peninsula 1
 Bonavista Peninsula 2
 Bonavista Peninsula 3
 Avalon Peninsula 1
 Avalon Peninsula 2


 To Louisbourg
 Louisbourg 1
 Louisbourg 2
 Cape Breton 1
 Cape Breton 2
 Fisherman's Life


24 September
Up early on dull morning and quick breakfast before getting shuttle to airport to pick up car. Back to hotel, packed car and had second instalment of breakfast before setting out for hard drive along 102. Grabbed cup of tea at Tim Horton's at Canso Causeway before crossing to Cape Breton Island. Called in at St Peter's Canal then on along Highway 4 on south side of Bras d'Or Lake. Few views of lake but mainly boring forest with a lot of roads works. Arrived in Louisbourg and had wander around looking at interesting old buildings. Poor on food shops but Pecks at far end of town had something to keep us going for a couple of days. Good liquor store with local wine. Midtown Cottages, Louisbourg. Large unit, comfortable but cooking equipment limited. Internet didn't reach our cabin (again).

25 September
Grey, miserable, slightly damp day. To Louisbourg for opening time and got first bus into site. Amazing place with really excellent staff with deep knowledge of subject. We didn't take a guided tour but felt it better to make our own way round and natter with staff. There all day and got last bus out.

26 September
Dull and horrible morning. Went to Louisbourg lighthouse, pleasant barrens country with what looked like nice walks (on a better day) along coast. Drove Marconi Trail via Main a Dieu and Mira Gut with some nice coastal views. Back through Sydney commuterland to 22 then 223 along Andrews Channel, mainly deciduous woodland. Beaver Cove was first place to get a cup of tea. Crossed Big Narrows on what was now a glorious day and on to Highland Village at Iona, interesting information on settlement development from knowledgeable staff. Scenic drive round Washbrook Peninsula with some reasonable views (although they didn't live up to hype in literature). Used Little Narrow Ferry (cheaper to buy ticket at Highland Village than on ferry). On to Baddeck (tourists, gift shops and eateries) on rapidly cooling evening. Dinner at Village Kitchen, slow (coach party in) but good. Auld Farm Inn, Baddeck. Large house, well beyond Baddeck, with friendly owners and tea/coffee available all day. Large bedroom but short on useful furniture, rather cramped bathroom. Very good breakfast.

27 September
Hard frost as precursor of lovely day. North on TCH then 312 via North River Bridge through pleasant woodland with autumn colours coming in. Indian Brook full of touristy things then succesion of crafteries as we went along Cabot Trail. Cape Smoky viewpoint busy. Number of small viewpoints, some better than others. Ingonish another tourist trap but pleasant round harbour. Little trail at Green Cove nice. Did scenic tour (good) round Neil's Harbour which is pleasant place with excellent, if basic, Chowder House on headland. White Point interesting with track with good views over barrens to headland. Went down to Dingwall, quiet place nice for a wander on both sides of river. Through Cape North to North Harbour with lovely views into Aspy Bay on a fantastic evening. Getting late so back to Cape North. Dinner at Angie's Kitchen (only place open) for reasonable meal. Oakwood B&B, Cape North. This is a stylish 1930s farmhouse tucked away at the end of a side road a little way from Cape North. Bedroom snug but comfortable, big bathroom. Comfortable lounge with tea/coffee, computer and internet. Good breakfast.

28 September
Low cloud, steady rain. Drove through mountainous country to Bay St Lawrence (nice settlement with landlocked harbour) hoping weather would improve. It didn't, it got worse. Down west coast, stopped at Lone Shieling Trail and wandered in forest in full waterproofs. Pleasant Bay a dump packed with gift shops and whale watching trips. Would probably have been some good views on a nice day with variety of scenery. At Belle Cote took side turning to Margaree Harbour and went over dunes to explore beach as rain had stopped, two bald eagles at end of breakwater. Turned onto road along west side of Lake Ainslie, in poor condition with a lot of roadworks. After what seemed a very long way through forest got to our destination. Tulloch Inn, West Lake Ainslie. Large, modern in traditional style, purpose built house tucked away in forest. Big, comforable bedroom and bathroom, internet. Excellent dinner available (just as well as no eatery for a long way). Breakfast a bit thin.

29 September
Cloudy day with varying amounts of rain. Fast drive to Canso Causeway then round Chedabucto Bay on 344/16/316. A number of nice spots with pleasant views along here which would have been much better on a dry day. Guysborough had a number of interesting, old buildings. Tor Bay picnic site provided a brief wander and would have been nice on a good day. This is a very quiet area which seems to get few visitors and would have been interesting to explore in good weather. On to Sherbrooke and managed to get some food for evening meal from Clover Farm Supermarket before it shut at 6pm. Days Ago B&B, Sherbrooke. Large house, we were the only people in as owner lives elsewhere. Could eat in kitchen as long as we did not cook. Good sized, old fashioned bedroom. Shared bathroom, comfortable louge. Good breakfast.

30 September
Cloudy, hot and unpleasantly humid. Went to Sherbrooke Village which was a disappointment. High staff presence but not particularly enthusiastic with a definite end-of-season atitude, tended to get set spiel, found it hard to get answers to our questions. Sawmill interesting. On along coast to Sheet Harbour with a number of stops and wanders on way, pleasant scenery but now quite misty. Sheet Harbour long and bigger than expected. Back in Thyme B&B, Sheet Harbour. Originally a sea-captain's house. Very much a family home with a warm welcome, sat in kitchen and ate our salad from supermarket while nattering with owners. Bedroom snug with small bathroom. Good breakfast.

1 October
Fine, sunny morning for nice drive to Jeddore Oyster Pond and Fisherman's Life Museum. Got there and dismayed to find coach but fortunately it was just leaving. House seemed to have full complement of staff to deal with the coach party, interesting place to visit. Long chat with staff about NS, fishing, Christmas Dinner in UK and all sorts of things. Headed on to Musquodoboit Harbour with a few detours then turned inland via 357 and 212 on our way back to Halifax Airport to drop car. Flight late so had long scamper for connection at Toronto.

2 October
London at midday, picked up car and to Premier Inn, Hayes.

3 October
Early departure from Hayes and back home 1000.

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