South America 2010 - Facts and Information
Day by Day 3: Sucre
Bolivia's capital in a high, white city
S AMERICA 2010


CHILEAN ATACAMA

 Atacama Villages
 Altiplanic Lagoons


BOLIVIA to POTOSI
 Into Bolivia
 To S Pedro de Quemez
 Salar de Uyuni
 To Potosi
 Potosi Streets
 Potosi Churches


SUCRE
 To Sucre
 Sucre Streets
 Sucre Markets
 Sucre Cathedral
 Sucre Churches
 Potolo


LA PAZ & TITICACA
 To La Paz & El Alto
 La Paz Streets
 La Paz Churches
 La Paz Museum
 Tiwanaku
 To Sorata
 Altiplano Farmland
 Lake Titicaca
 Isla del Sol
 Into Peru



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17 April
Different driver and car for trip to Sucre. (Vladimir was to have left us at Potosi and we were to have a new guide, but after his taking the bus to Sucre the previous day there was a change of plan and he had to get another bus back that afternoon.) Interesting drive across mountains and high plateau, more rainfall here so very fertile alhough thin air restricts photosynthesis leading to low yields. Stopped at small town of Betanozos for quick look at main street and market. Called at La Glorietta, interesting faded grandeur rather let down by rather tatty military camp next door. Arrived Sucre lunchtime and went for explore of centre on our own including market and churches. Very hot, gave into small boys in square who wanted to clean our boots (and did a very professional job). Dinner with Vladimir at Los Balcones restaurant on balcony overlooking square, very large and very good meal (antibiotics obviously working). Parador Santa Maria la Real, Sucre Quite excellent and very characterful hotel in traditional style well situated in central Sucre. Very pleasant and comfortable room. Breakfasts good in stylish room (but getting eggs was a bit challenging sometimes). No other formal meals available but comprehensive room service menu offered well cooked food at very reasonable prices which we ate in the courtyard. Staff very friendly and helpful but good English didn't go beyond Reception.

18 April
Early start to get to cathedral before mass (only time it is open). Then out of city to market at Parada Ravelo to buy gifts for people we would visit for the day (hair ornaments for girls, combs for boys, coca leaves and soap for adults). Long climb through famland and forest to Chataquila Pass and small church on Inca sacred site. Steep descent to Potolo valley with excellent views. Visited small farm owned by old couple then through gorge to Potolo village where went to see weavers in two cottages. Quick look round village but we were beginning to attract attention as the two gringos who had been buying things (not much to be truthful but welcome income for these people) and had free coca leaves on offer so Vladimir suggested we leave. Back same way. Had picnic lunch sitting in car in gorge. Very good day. In evening went for quick look at Iglesia Santa Domingo before mass as only time it is open.

19 April
City tour of Sucre. First to Recoleta for views then Museum of Indigenous Art to see weaving. Traffic jams in Sucre centre. After lunch to cemetery then San Felipe Neri (once nunnery now exclusive girls' school). Went to PO to buy stamps and post cards, quite a performance. Said goodbye to Vladimir for second time.

20 April
Free day in Sucre. Had originally intended to go to Ecclesiastical Museum in morning but decided to leave it until afternoon when it would be hot in streets. Went for general wander to Santa Monica and Plaza Bolivar and its park, then back through markets to hotel for lunch. Afternoon went to Eccelsiastical Museum which was very quiet, also gave limited time in cathedral, all worthwhile. Walked up through old town to San Lazaro on way to Recoleta then back to hotel.

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