France 2011 - Facts and Information

Day by Day 3: St Thégonnec

Parish closes and rock coasts


Arrival in Brittany
Maison Cornec & Pleyben
Guengat
Penmarc'h
Around Pont-Croix
Pont-Croix
Cast & Ch'neuf du Faou
Spézet & Trévarez
To Crozon
Camaret & Crozon
Concarneau/St Maurice
Locronan
Manoir de Kerazan
Plogonnec & Le Juch
Poul Fetan
Village de l'An Mil



Plumelec
Rochefort-en-Terre
Malestroit & Lizio
Around Carnac
Erdeven & St Cado
Vraie-Croix & Guégon
Josselin
Guehenno
Around Castennec
Quelven & Guémené
Kernascléden
Château de Suscinio
Rhuys Peninsula
Locmariaquer 1
Locmariaquer 2



Forges des Salles
Beyond Brest
St Thégonnec
To Guerlesquin
Tonquédec/Lanmeur
N of Morlaix
Côte des Bruyéres
Around Tréguier
Around Berrien
Saint-Herbot
S of St Thégonnec
Moulins de Kerouat
Commana
To La Martyre
S of Landivisiau
Guimiliau
La Roche Maurice
Bodilis
Château de Kerjean
September 17
Another dull and damp day as we headed north for our last week. Feeling the need to stretch our legs we called in at Gueltas, a very quiet village, where an elderly lady insisted on taking us into the church for a tour. Then to Mûr de Bretagne, an attractive stone built town where we wandered for some time before heading to Lac de Guerlédan to eat our lunch (on a nice day this would be attractive, but the huge car park suggested summers crowds). We were filling in time until our main destination for the day would be open. This was Les Forges des Salles, an intriguing industrial and social museum deep in woodland. We had a tour with a young English guide and then spent some time looking round on our own. From there we headed to our next cottage at Pen a Lan near St Thégonnec, a splendid old building deep in the country in a rather spooky setting when it was dull.

September 18
A wet night gave way to a good morning and a fast run down the dual carriageway to Brest before turning north along the coast. Complicated network of white roads which taxed the navigator so stuck to the yellow ones. To Pointe de Sainte Mathieu with nice coastal scenery, two lighthouses and a ruined abbey. Very pleasant coast, called in at simple clifftop Chapelle St Sampson. After crossing Aber W'rach we went to Pont du Diable, impressive tidal causeway of uncertain date across river. Just along road from here was evocatively set Chapelle St Pol Aurelien, sadly shut. Then to Iliz Koz, site of medieval village overwhelmed by sand in C18th and now excavated. Brief, but comprehensive, downfall led to beautiful evening as we walked on the coast at Ménéham before heading for Pointe du Pontusval.

September 19
Went into St Thégonnec for bread and a good look round the splendid church. Next headed east to look for Kanndi du Fers at Ste Brigitte (a wash house for linen) and then chanced upon another in the tiny hamlet of Pen ar Vern. Next to Pleyber-Christ, uninspiring and slightly scruffy town but with an interesting church. Next to pleasant little town of Guerlesquin before heading to splendidly ruinous Château de Tonquédec. Finally to Lanmeur, very ordinary town but interesting Church of St Mélar with Romanesque crypt.

September 20
Fast run past Morlaix then skirted airport to Ploujean which looked quite nice so we parked up and found church delightful. On to Cairn de Barnenez, immense structure and one of France's oldest megalithic sites. On to Le Diben for a pleasant walk along coast. Then to Pointe de Primel intending to walk to headland but path became too poor for Eleanor's knees so we gave up. Stopped at St Jean du Doigt, really sleepy village but good church and close. Later to Le Hogolo and its Gallo-Roman bath house. Finally to Le Yaudet to explore headland with old fort, fishing wall and pleasant chapel.

September 21
The intention had been to head to the coast but steadily deteriorating weather and the discovery that the Côte de Granit Rose is actually quite developed saw us head inland to Tréguier, a very pleasant town with a fine cathedral and plenty of interesting buildings. After lunch to Château de la Roche-Jagu (unfurnished and used for exhibitions) but with some pleasant gardens and nice walks (if it hadn't been raining). Finally to La Roche-Derrien, a small fortified town overlooking the estuary and which has retained much of its medieval character.

September 22
Beautiful day so some time spent retaking pictures in St Thégonnec as previous effort had been on dull day. First stop at Berrien with pleasant church then drove through tiny hamlet of Keraden so stopped and wandered. Eleanor wanted to find medieval village of Goenidou which was down forest road which degenerated into increasingly dodgy track with nowhere to turn. Eventually found site which was covered in knee-high vegetation and fortunately at a place where we could turn. Spent a few minutes at La Feuillée, pleasant enough but everything shut. Next to St Herbot, delightful little settlement with a splendid church containing an amazing rood screen. In the afternoon to Huelgoat, quite busy with tourists but plenty of nice woodland walks. Back via Callac.

September 23
Really lovely morning so started off with a quick look at Loc-Eguiner-St-Thégonnec then to Plounéour-Ménez (impressive but locked church). After that to Moulins de Kerouat, interesting water mill museum in wooded valley. Commana gets little attention from guide books which is a shame because it has a very good church. Lunch at Mougou Bihan, a covered alley grave. Drove up into Monts d'Arrée  and walked up for the view from Roc'h Trévezel before heading to La Martyre with its nice church. Went to Locmélar with another lovely church that the books seem to ignore. Late afternoon saw us in the well-known Lampaul-Guimiliau which has a splendid church and close. Finally to Guimiliau, also with a marvellous church and close.

September 24
More good weather for our last day and we headed for La Roche Maurice, nice little town with interesting, recently restored castle and good church. Driving on stumbled upon Pont Christ with ruins of Chapelle Notre-Dame de Bon Secours in nice spot by stream. Bodilis very shut up at lunchtime but church open and with lovely interior. Now quite warm as we headed to Château de Kerjean, nicely restored, interesting collection of furniture but several rooms marred by arty-farty exhibition. Spent remainder of afternoon exploring pleasant coast line from Plage de Pors Guen to Roscoff with a number of little walks. Time to head for ferry via wine warehouse - we preferred Wine Centre at last roundabout before port.  (Back to Top)
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